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The most unloved accessory in the male wardrobe has caught the magpie eye of several womenswear designers, who have dragged it from the dark of the sock drawer and promised it the love and glamour no man could ever give. Finnish brand Aalto and newcomers Jour/ne and Victoria/Tomas all featured ties, either knotted or hung like scarves around the neck, in opening day shows of the Paris autumn-winter collections. The trio of young designers behind French lapel Jour/ne matched ties not just with Sherlock Holmes-style silk smoking jackets and double-breasted suits, but with a retro mini dress. Aalto's Tuomas Merikoski stuck to the classic black knotted tie under pinstriped business suits, giving his models the air of female commodity trader gangsters. The raiding of men's wardrobes went on in Koche's "co-ed" show later, where rugby shirts were tucked inside slinky cutaway frilly skirts. More disconcerting still was a male model sporting a chunky gold medallion over his Jocky Wilson darts-style shirt. Designers in Milan last week were already noticeably manning up their women's collections, with Armani notably embracing more masculine lines in suits that shouted "we mean business". - Trump's long red one - But no one there had dared touch the tie with all its rich Freudian and phallic symbolism, particularly in the wake of US President Donald Trump's preference for alarmingly long red ones. Paris designers, however, seem to be queuing up to give the traditional tie a playful tweak.
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